August 03, 2022
What is Suede Leather? The Ultimate Guide to Suede Fabric, Nubuck, and How to Clean Suede
When you think of luxury, few materials evoke the same sense of tactile indulgence as suede. Whether it’s a pair of iconic blue suede shoes, a tailored suede jacket from a high-end boutique, or a handcrafted leather journal from Vintage Leather Sydney, which specialises in high-quality leather and suede products, suede represents a unique intersection of rugged history and cultivated elegance.
Despite its popularity, there is often confusion about this beautiful material. Is suede real leather? What is suede made of exactly? And, perhaps most importantly, what happens if suede gets wet?
In this thorough guide, we will reveal the details of this fascinating form of leather. We will explore the origins of suede, the detailed process of making it, the differences between suede and nubuck, and the practical steps for caring for suede so your items last a lifetime.
Defining the Material: What is Suede?
To truly understand this material, particularly its texture, we must first examine its explanation and origins.
Is Suede Real Leather?
At its core, suede is a type of leather with a soft, fuzzy surface, known as a "nap." Unlike full-grain leather, which preserves the tough outer skin of the animal, suede is made from the underside of the animal's skin. This inner layer is sanded and buffed to raise the fibres, creating a velvety texture that is warm to the touch and incredibly pliable.
The word suede itself hints at its history. It comes from the French term "gants de Suède", which literally translates to "gloves of Sweden." In the 19th century, French fashion elites became obsessed with a specific type of soft, flexible glove imported from Sweden. Over time, the term evolved to describe the material itself—any leather made with that distinctive, napped finish.
What Part of the Animal Does Suede Come From?
To make leather usable for delicate items, raw hide is often too thick. It must be split.
- The Split: The hide is sliced horizontally. The top layer (grain) becomes full-grain leather. The bottom layer—the underside of animal hides—is the "split." Suede comes from this inner split layer.
- Sanding: This split layer is then sanded using abrasive surfaces. This disturbs the collagen fibres, causing them to stand up and create the nap.
What is Suede Made Of?
Beyond just the animal hide, suede is made of a combination of natural collagen fibres and tanning agents.
- Collagen Fibres: The protein structure of the skin that gives suede its strength.
- Tanning Agents: During tanning, chromium salts or vegetable tannins are added to preserve and soften the hide. Suede specifically calls for careful tanning to ensure the "split" stays supple and does not become brittle.
Types of Suede: Real, Faux, and Variations
One of the most common questions we receive is about the difference between suede and similar materials.
Types of Animal Hide Used
While cowhide is the most common source, suede can be made from the skin of almost any animal.
- Sheepskin (Lambskin): Produces the finest, softest type of suede. Made from lambskin, it is the gold standard for high-end garments.
- Calfskin: Delivers a balance of softness and durability, making it perfect for suede shoes.
- Pigskin Suede: A heavy, durable type of leather often used for casual shoes or workwear, identifiable by visible pores.
- Deerskin: Rare but prized for its unique combination of thickness and extreme softness.
Nubuck vs. Suede
Nubuck and suede look very similar, but their manufacturing processes are opposite.
- Nubuck: Created by sanding the outer grain of the hide. Because it retains the outer skin, nubuck is much stronger and thicker ("velvet leather").
- Suede: Created by sanding the inner split of the hide. Suede is often favoured for its softness and flexibility ("flannel leather").
Faux Suede Fabric (Microsuede)
Faux suede, or microsuede, is a suede fabric made from polyester fibre.
- Water Resistance: Premium faux suede is often treated to be waterproof.
- Breathability: Genuine suede breathes because it is natural skin. Faux suede fabric tends to trap heat.
Comparison: At a Glance
| Feature | Suede Leather | Nubuck | Faux Suede |
| Source | Underside of split hide | Outer grain of hide | Synthetic fibre |
| Texture | Soft, high nap, pliable | Fine nap, stiff, durable | Uniform, smooth |
| Water Resistance | Low (absorbs easily) | Low (absorbs easily) | High (often waterproof) |
| Cost | Moderate | High | Low |
The Advantages and Disadvantages of Suede
Before investing in leather goods, it is necessary to weigh the material's characteristics.
Advantages of Suede
- Aesthetics: Suede gives an immediate impression of luxury. The matte finish absorbs light, making colours appear deeper.
- Tactile Feeling: The softness is unmatched. A suede jacket feels like another skin.
- Pliability: Suede is a pliable leather. This material is ideal for elaborate designs or slouchy outerwear, increasing both style and comfort.
Disadvantages of Suede
- Permeability: Suede is naturally porous. It absorbs water and oil instantly.
- Durability: Since the tough outer skin is removed, suede is thinner and can tear more easily than traditional leather.
Environmental Impact of Suede Production
- By-Product: Like most leather, suede is a by-product of the meat industry, preventing hides from entering landfills.
- Chemicals: The tanning process includes chemicals, but reputable tanneries now use strict water treatment systems.
- Longevity: A high-quality suede jacket can last for decades, reducing "fast fashion" waste.
Common Uses of Suede
Suede is used in a surprising variety of industries beyond fashion.
Fashion and Footwear
From the desert boot to the loafer, suede shoes are commonly made from suede, as the skin provides a soft texture. The breathability of suede leather is essential for comfort in outerwear. Leather hides make them comfortable for full-day wear. Suede is also the premier material for gloves due to its grip and softness.
Home Decor and Upholstery
Suede fabric is widely used for curtains, throw pillows, and sofas.
Pros and Cons of Suede Furniture
- Pros: It adds a comfortable, warm texture and provides a non-slip surface.
- Cons: Genuine suede is difficult to clean. Most "suede" sofas use faux suede for easier maintenance.
The Ultimate Care Guide – How to Clean Suede
The reputation suede has for being "impossible to clean" is largely a myth. The golden rule of caring for suede and nubuck is always to treat stains immediately. Keep it dry.
What Happens if Suede Gets Wet?
If suede gets wet, the water permeates the porous fibres. As it dries, the water evaporates, which can pull out the leather's natural oils, making it stiff and brittle. Additionally, water can flatten the "nap," leaving shiny or dark patches. However, water does not ruin suede permanently if you follow the steps below immediately.
The Suede Cleaning Kit
To produce suede maintenance results at home, you need:
- Suede Brush: Brass bristles for tough nap, nylon for delicate.
- Suede Eraser: A rubber block to lift dirt.
- White Vinegar: For tough stains.
- Protective Spray: To make the item water-repellent.
Step-by-Step Care Instructions
Step 1: Routine Maintenance
Every time you wear your suede shoes, give them a quick brush when you get home. Use a suede brush to stroke the nap in one direction. This removes surface dust.
Step 2: How to Remove Water Stains
If you get caught in the rain:
- Blot: Use a dry towel to absorb water. Do not rub.
- Dry: Let it dry naturally away from heat.
- Brush: Once dry, vigorously brush back and forth to fluff the fibres.
Step 3: How to Remove Oil Stains
Oil is the enemy.
- Cover the spot with cornstarch immediately.
- Let it sit overnight to draw the oil out of the leather.
- Brush away the powder the next day.
Step 4: Can Suede Be Washed?
Technically, yes, but it is risky, especially when working with leather and suede. We recommend professional cleaning. Never put suede in a washing machine; the water saturation will ruin the tanning agents and stiffen the leather.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What is suede fabric used for in home decor?
Suede fabric (usually synthetic) is used for curtains and sofas to add a comfortable, warm texture.
Do suede shoes crease?
Yes, suede shoes will crease at flex points. However, because suede is softer, creases are often less sharp than on finished leather.
Will a suede jacket (like Sezane) stretch?
Yes. Suede split leather has more give than full-grain leather, making it a common pick for various applications. A suede jacket will relax and mould to your body shape.
What does suede feel like?
Suede feels like a mix of velvet and cotton flannel. It is dry, warm, and soft.
Do suede shoes get dirty easily?
Yes. The open nap captures dust and liquid. We highly recommend treating new suede products with a waterproofing spray before wear.
Will suede dry if it gets wet?
Suede will dry, but you must control the process (keep it away from heat) and restore the texture with a brush afterwards to prevent stiffening.
Conclusion: Is Suede Right For You?
Suede is more than merely a material; it is a statement. It says you appreciate texture, comfort, and the finer things in life. While it needs a bit more care than a standard leather bag, the payoff is a product that looks better with age and feels incredible to use.
At Vintage Leather Sydney, we welcome the unique character of all leather types. We hope this guide has demystified the world of suede fabric and empowered you to wear it with confidence. Remember: brush it often, keep it dry, and enjoy the softness that genuine suede offers.
